New fencers & parents
gear introduction
At a minimum students are required to wear
Students are allowed to use their weapon specific mask and glove for any non competition classes.
Ex: Saber mask in Epee class, Foil mask in Saber class etc.
Dry (non electric) weapon is for all classes except competition level
Students in competition classes need an electric weapon, plastron, knickers, body cord (as well as mask cord and Lame for saber & foil). Click here to learn more about tournament gear
If you have any questions please email Armorer@HighPlainsFencing.com
- mask, jacket, and glove
- Long pants and shoes (non marking)
- weapon for that particular class (Foil / Epee / Saber)
Students are allowed to use their weapon specific mask and glove for any non competition classes.
Ex: Saber mask in Epee class, Foil mask in Saber class etc.
Dry (non electric) weapon is for all classes except competition level
- Electric is required for competition level classes
Students in competition classes need an electric weapon, plastron, knickers, body cord (as well as mask cord and Lame for saber & foil). Click here to learn more about tournament gear
If you have any questions please email Armorer@HighPlainsFencing.com
purchesing gear
We recommend students rent gear for their first 1-3 months before considering purchasing. Our Armorer is happy to offer guidance and can be reached at Armorer@HighPlainsFencing.com
General Purchasing Tips
Starter Kits
Click here for a list of where to get gear and parts
- When ready to buy the easiest option is a full starter kit from one of the fencing stores or start with whatever rental piece is least comfortable (usually the jacket) and replace piece by piece.
General Purchasing Tips
- Blade size will always be #5
- French Grip is the standard for all students starting out
- Get "dry" aka "practice" for Epees, Sabers, and Foils
- Electric weapons will work fine in class but aren't needed unless in a Competition class or competing in tournaments
- No need to buy the FIE version
- Non-FIE gear aka CE Level 1 is perfectly fine for class and tournaments in the US
- FIE (International Fencing Federation) is who regulates international fencing gear safety standards and is CE Level 2
- Each company offers there own sizing guide. Chat with our Armorer, other students in class, and your coach for sizing guidance
- DO NOT buy from Amazon. Only fencing companies offer equipment with the proper safety rating. Amazon items can be very very dangerous
- For a list of fencing suppliers click here
- For a list of fencing suppliers click here
- Plastron: Only competition class requires one but it can provide extra padding to soften contact
- Chest Protector: like these from BlueGauntlet offer the greatest comfort and is recommended for anyone who desires to wear one from complete beginner to competition fencers. (Chest protectors are required for women during tournaments per USA Fencing regulation)
Starter Kits
- Places like AbsoluteFencing and AllianceFencing offer kits with everything needed for standard classes. These run approximately $250 for the 7 piece set and would include:
- Standard 3-Weapon mask, back-zip cotton jacket (least expensive & least comfortable), 3-weapon glove, practice foil/epee/saber, cotton plastron, fencing bag.
- Upgrading from the cotton jacket to one listed as stretch/elite stretch/etc. provides a large increase in comfort
- If purchasing a start kit get blade size #5 and grip size "French"
- When offered the option for Upgrade from cotton to the stretch/elite stretch jacket for greater comfort (lighter & breathes better)
- FIE or Non FIE? Go with non FIE. Competition fencers that have been competing for awhile should invest in FIE level gear
Click here for a list of where to get gear and parts
anatomy of an epee
coming soon
detailed gear info
Definitions
Field of Play
Equipment and gear
Other equipment or gear
- Strip (Piste) – The fencing area, roughly 14 by 2 metres (45.9 ft × 6.6 ft). The last two metres on each end is hash-marked, to warn a fencer before he/she backs off the end of the strip. Retreating off the end of the strip with both feet gets a touch against. Going off the side of the strip with one foot halts the fencing action. Going off the side with both feet gets a penalty of the loss of one metre. After each touch, fencers begin again at the center of the strip, 4 metres apart.
Equipment and gear
- Épée – A fencing weapon with triangular cross-section blade and a large bell guard; also a light dueling sword of similar design, popular in the mid-19th century, which was also called an 'Épée de Terrain.'
- Foible – The top third of the blade. This section of the blade is weaker in terms of leverage, and is used for beats, presses, and other motions where speed is needed and leverage is not crucial.
- Foil – A fencing weapon with rectangular cross-section blade and a small bell guard. More generally, any sword that has been buttoned or had its point turned back to render it less dangerous for practice.
- Forte – The bottom third of the blade, so named for the strength in leverage that it provides. Always perform your parries with the forte. Hitting the opponent with the forte is not recommended.
- French Grip – A traditional hilt with a slightly curved grip and a large pommel.
- Guard – also Bell and Bell Guard. A Cup-shaped metal (steel or aluminum) weapon part which protects the hand. Foils use small concentrically mounted bell guards, épées use larger offset-mounted bell guards, and sabres have a knuckle guard that wraps around the hilt to protect from cuts to the hand.
- Hilt – Everything that you hold. The handle of a sword, consisting of guard, grip, and pommel.
- Maraging steel – A special steel alloy used for making blades rated for international competition. Usually stronger and more durable than conventional carbon-steel blades, but more importantly, it tends to break less frequently than carbon-steel blades. This is because propagation of micro-cracks in the blade is approximately 10 times slower in maraging steel than in carbon-steel. It is a fencing urban myth that a maraging steel blade is designed to break flat; the breakage patterns are identical. Both maraging and non-maraging blades break with the same degree of jaggedness. The sole reason for requiring a maraging steel blade (or a non-maraging one that has the same longevity under FIE testing) is that less blade breaks equals less potential for follow-on injury.[3]
- Pistol Grip – A modern, orthopedic grip, often shaped vaguely like a small pistol (generally with more protrusions than a real pistol's grip). Varieties are known by names such as Belgian, German, Russian, and Visconti. Orthopedic grips were introduced to aid a fencer who has lost some fingers and was unable to use a traditional grip.
- Point – In foil and épée, the point is the only part of the blade with which to score points. The point may also be used in sabre.
- Pommel – From the old French word for 'apple'. This fastener affixes the grip and guard to the tang of the blade. It has female threading, but the threaded hole does not go all the way through as is the case with a nut. It is screwed onto the distal end of the tang, locking guard, grip and electric connector is position by compression and friction. The pommel traditionally acts as a counterweight on non-orthopedic grips of foils and épées, and on all sabres. In electric sabre, it is covered with plastic as to not interfere with the detection of valid hits by allowing stray currents. Orthopedic (pistol-grip) weapons use only a pommel nut, usually fitting inside a cylindrical hole in the grip.
- Sabre – A fencing weapon with a flat blade and knuckle guard, used with cutting or thrusting actions; a military sword popular in the 18th to 20th centuries; any cutting sword used by cavalry. The modern fencing sabre is descended from the dueling sabre of Italy and Germany, which was straight and thin with sharp edges, but had a blunt end.
Other equipment or gear
- Body Cord – The insulated wire that runs under a fencer's jacket, connecting the Electrical Competition weapon to the reel, and thence to the scoring machine. The body cord also connects to the lamé causing it to become conductive.
- Three Prong – A type of épée body wire/connector.
- Two Prong – A type of body-wire/connector, used in foil and sabre.
- Lamé – The electrically conductive jacket worn by Foil and Sabre fencers. In foil, the lamé extends on the torso from the shoulders to the groin area. It also covers the back. In sabre, the lamé covers both arms, the torso from the shoulders to the waist, and the back. Sabreurs also wear a conductive glove cover, called a manchette on their weapon hand. The lamé is connected to the body cord with an alligator clip causing it to be conductive.
- Manchette – A special glove cover worn by sabre fencers, on their weapon hand. Covered by a type of brocaded fabric with inwoven metal threads that serve as a conductive surface that aides in the practice of electric fencing, the manchette is worn on the hand and wrist. The manchette is conducting up to but not exceeding the wrist area. It is worn in conjunction with a lamé.
- Plastron – Also Underarm Protector. A partial garment worn under the jacket for padding or for safety. Usually Consists of a sleeve and a chest/abdomen covering, which provides additional padding and protection. An 'underarm' plastron is seamless under the weapon arm, providing no weak seams for a broken blade to rip through. An 'over-plastron' is worn to provide additional padding.
Q: What's the difference between all the jacket options
A: There are 3 main differences in jackets
1) Material
2) Zipper Placement
3) FIE or Non FIE (350N vs 800N)
1) Material
- Cotton (least expensive, least comfortable) example: $50 from Absolute Fencing
- Stretch (poly or poly/cotton blend) example: $$70 from The Fencing Post
- more comfortable than cheaper cotton jackets. We recommend Stretch for all new students once they are ready to upgrade away from the club rental gear
- Upgraded/Elite Stretch (sits between the top of the line FIE (800N) and regular stretch/poly)
- Example: $150 Allstar Alpha 350N from Blue Gauntlet Fencing
- FIE 800N - these are the top of the line and recommended for those that are looking for a very comfortable jacket or fencers who have been to a few competitions and are ready to upgrade their gear.
- Example: $350 Allstar Startex or $430 Leon Paul Apex
2) Zipper Placement
- Front-zip (aka side zip) - this is the recommended zipper placement as it is much easier for students to use. Normally found on the stretch jackets and up
- Back Zip - zipper is on the back of the jacket. These are usually found on the least expensive cotton jackets
3) FIE or Non FIE (350N vs 800N)
- The FIE is the international fencing governing board. All international competitions require FIE certified gear but US competitions only require CE level gear. Standard CE lvl 1 is 350N (non FIE) whereas FIE jackets are rated for 800 newtons of force protection (masks are 1600 newton). The additional strength makes them much more expensive but also more comfortable. Manufacturers make FIE jackets (and knickers, plastrons, masks) the most comfortable and usually lighter. FIE gear is recommended for those that want the utmost in comfort and/or have been fencing tournaments for a season or longer
Q: What about knickers/pants?
A: Knickers/pants have the same material and FIE vs Non FIE differences as jackets do. Knickers however do not have differences in zipper placement. Some brands use zippers, others buttons, others velcro. We have found no clear advantage of zippers vs buttons etc. for knickers.
Q: Does fencing require specific shoes?
A: No. But...here are some tips on what to look for in a shoe.
What about fencing shoes from Nike, AllStar, Absolute, etc?
Fencing shoes are great. They can also be very expensive. The best shoe is the one that works best FOR YOUR BODY type and fighting style. This may be a shoe marketed for fencing or something entirely different such as a racquetball or other court shoe. You find this out through countless bouts and paying attention to what your body is telling you, and when possible enlisting the advice of a podiatrist or medical professional.
Fencing shoes are chalk full of marketing terms that are more or less meaningless. However, they do offer these key features: toe protection for toe hits, light weight, close to the ground, laces often angled to shift away from high friction areas, soles designed of material specifically to grip on a Piste. Not all fencing shoes are created equally either. When possible try on shoes at fencing gear providers retail locations (mainly East Coast) or at Regional and National tournament venues if a retailer is present.
Are there other sport specific shoes that work well?
YES! Pretty much any court shoe along the lines of a racquetball or even pickleball shoe are good places to start. Head to Big5 Sporting Goods, Scheels, whatever your local store is and try shoes on. Take an En Guarde stance, advance and retreat, try a lunge, try a big retreat. Pay attention to what feels right and what feels wrong/hurts. Try another shoe.
Key tips: No cleats (obviously), indoor soccer shoes and racquetball/pickleball shoes are a good place to start. Most fencing shoes are pretty narrow and focused on the European/Asian market not US market. Call the manufacturer for better sizing details (if you can't get ahold of anyone is that really a product you want?)
Where to start: Asics (Gel Rocket, Gel Renma, Gel Domain, Court FF2, Blast FF2, etc..) Puma indoor soccer shoes (NO CLEATS), Wilson Kaos Swift.
Ask people you fence if they like their shoes!
- Shoes must be non marking (most athletic shoes are non marking)
- The closer to the ground you are the better
- Rounded heals are preferred
- Some sort of toe protection (suede upper, padding, anything that helps dampen toe hits) is ideal but not required
- Breathability helps with endurance - and of course other areas
- No soft soles (soles made of cloth, suede, or anything that will slip on a gym floor or metal track)
- Impact Protection - Adding an insole helps adapt a shoe that works great for you into one that works even better and helps reduce the likelihood of injuries. Insoles come in a variety of styles and purposes. A podiatrist is the best resource however Scheels has a nifty machine that will help identify a good insole and Dicks Sporting Goods and Big 5 have a solid selection of insoles to try as well.
- A good place to start looking is at racquetball or indoor soccer (non cleat) shoes
What about fencing shoes from Nike, AllStar, Absolute, etc?
Fencing shoes are great. They can also be very expensive. The best shoe is the one that works best FOR YOUR BODY type and fighting style. This may be a shoe marketed for fencing or something entirely different such as a racquetball or other court shoe. You find this out through countless bouts and paying attention to what your body is telling you, and when possible enlisting the advice of a podiatrist or medical professional.
Fencing shoes are chalk full of marketing terms that are more or less meaningless. However, they do offer these key features: toe protection for toe hits, light weight, close to the ground, laces often angled to shift away from high friction areas, soles designed of material specifically to grip on a Piste. Not all fencing shoes are created equally either. When possible try on shoes at fencing gear providers retail locations (mainly East Coast) or at Regional and National tournament venues if a retailer is present.
Are there other sport specific shoes that work well?
YES! Pretty much any court shoe along the lines of a racquetball or even pickleball shoe are good places to start. Head to Big5 Sporting Goods, Scheels, whatever your local store is and try shoes on. Take an En Guarde stance, advance and retreat, try a lunge, try a big retreat. Pay attention to what feels right and what feels wrong/hurts. Try another shoe.
Key tips: No cleats (obviously), indoor soccer shoes and racquetball/pickleball shoes are a good place to start. Most fencing shoes are pretty narrow and focused on the European/Asian market not US market. Call the manufacturer for better sizing details (if you can't get ahold of anyone is that really a product you want?)
Where to start: Asics (Gel Rocket, Gel Renma, Gel Domain, Court FF2, Blast FF2, etc..) Puma indoor soccer shoes (NO CLEATS), Wilson Kaos Swift.
Ask people you fence if they like their shoes!
Q: What is electric vs dry / practice mean for weapons?
A: Practice weapons (also called dry) are the least expensive and come with a rubber tip. They're great for class and training at home however, they will not work with the electric scoring equipment and therefore can not be used for tournaments or competition level classes
Electric weapons are more expensive as they consist of the blade, a tip that completes a circuit, a wire(s) that connects into a socket that then connects into the scoring reels. All tournaments require electric weapons as well as competition classes.
Electric weapons allow for the usage of certified scoring systems. What's the difference? Think of it like this, a ref can try to watch both fencers as closely as possible but in Epee a simultaneous scored hit means the fencers landed hits within 40 milliseconds! Just a tad too fast for a ref to catch.
Electric also ensures you actually landed your hit. We find a lot of fencers surprised the buzzer didn't sound on some hits when they first start electric. That's because it takes a certain amount of force and travel for the tip to complete the circuit. These levels are strictly regulated by the FIE. It can be quite a shocker when you feel your hit land but it glanced off just enough or wasn't quite enough pressure to compress the tip fully and therefore doesn't count as a hit.
Electric weapons are more expensive as they consist of the blade, a tip that completes a circuit, a wire(s) that connects into a socket that then connects into the scoring reels. All tournaments require electric weapons as well as competition classes.
Electric weapons allow for the usage of certified scoring systems. What's the difference? Think of it like this, a ref can try to watch both fencers as closely as possible but in Epee a simultaneous scored hit means the fencers landed hits within 40 milliseconds! Just a tad too fast for a ref to catch.
Electric also ensures you actually landed your hit. We find a lot of fencers surprised the buzzer didn't sound on some hits when they first start electric. That's because it takes a certain amount of force and travel for the tip to complete the circuit. These levels are strictly regulated by the FIE. It can be quite a shocker when you feel your hit land but it glanced off just enough or wasn't quite enough pressure to compress the tip fully and therefore doesn't count as a hit.
Q: What is a body cord?
A: Body Cord – The insulated wire that runs under a fencer's jacket, connecting the Electrical Competition weapon to the reel, and thence to the scoring machine. The body cord also connects to the lamé causing it to become conductive.
- Three Prong – A type of épée body wire/connector.
- Two Prong – A type of body-wire/connector, used in foil and sabre.
Q: What is a Lamé?
A: Lamé – The electrically conductive jacket worn by Foil and Sabre fencers. In foil, the lamé extends on the torso from the shoulders to the groin area. It also covers the back. In sabre, the lamé covers both arms, the torso from the shoulders to the waist, and the back. Sabreurs also wear a conductive glove cover, called a manchette (or cuff) on their weapon hand. The lamé is connected to the body cord with an alligator clip causing it to be conductive.
Q: What Is a Manchette???
A: Manchette (aka cuff) – A special glove cover worn by sabre fencers, on their weapon hand. Covered by a type of brocaded fabric with inwoven metal threads that serve as a conductive surface that aides in the practice of electric fencing, the manchette is worn on the hand and wrist. The manchette is conducting up to but not exceeding the wrist area. It is worn in conjunction with a lamé.
Q: What's a Plastron and do I need one?
A: Optional for class (except competition) Required for tournaments.
- Plastron – (aka Underarm Protector). A partial garment worn under the jacket for padding or for safety. Usually consists of a sleeve and a chest/abdomen covering, which provides additional padding and protection. An 'underarm' plastron is seamless under the weapon arm, providing no weak seams for a broken blade to rip through. An 'over-plastron' is worn to provide additional padding.
Feel free to email our Armorer Trevor with all of your equipment/gear questions armorer@highplainsfencing.com